Biarritz Surf

What is that throbbing in my ears? Oh yes, the result of spending two days being thrown around in the water at Biarritz, France attempting the first time surfing. I have the introductory phase of an ear infection, which is being graciously healed by the French medical system. The reasons for which is that I arrived into Biarritz on Friday evening by train with another exchange student from Hong Kong, and was picked up by some friends and directly taken to the youth hostel, where another 15 exchange students from ESC Toulouse were. On Saturday, I surfed for 3 hours, the waves were huge (at least 1.50 meters-2 meters) and the current was strong. I didn’t really manage to actually get up on the surf board, only partly. It’s really not as easy as it looks. Actually, we were at the worst beach (they are separated by large rock formations), the waves were humongous and not conducive for surfing because they broke sharply and near the beach (shore break is the term in surfing I believe).

The next day on Sunday, we went out again to the normal area where the surfers throw down. We arrived there around noon, and the wave conditions were ideal. I actually got up twice, once for a good amount of time on a nice wave of about 1 meter in height. It was a sensational feeling, I definitely understand how people can get addicted to this sport. The feeling of the wave thrusting you along as the water builds and the sound of the rushing water, it’s an all-inclusive experience that is simply just fun. When I was little, I used to just watch the waves crash for hours at a time in Florida, it’s still just as fascinating the movement of water and the crashing waves amongst each other. The phenomenon that I could compare it to the most closely would be looking at the old-school Microsoft screen-savers with the changing shape bouncing around the blackened computer monitor’s screen. You want the shape to absolutely hit the corner, and you ask yourself when that perfect moment of corner-shape unison will occur. It’s almost like the golden grail, something that is shrouded in myth, so elusive that it’s magical… if that makes any sense? That’s the way that I view the waves, the constant motion of advancing and receding waves keeps me captivated for longer than it probably should. My friend Thomas informed me that I was “faisant le philosophe” by looking at the waves in China where the Great Wall meets the China Sea. I guess it’s true, because it allows one to reflect and have a clear head to think.

I have better adapted to myself to the Toulouse life recently, and I am actively searching an internship in Asia. I hope to land one in Korea, especially if it’s possible through ASU. If not, then I will target Hong Kong, Shanghai and Singapore on my own. Otherwise, I am quite tired after a long night (^^), which was quite random from many standpoints, but that is more of a closely guarded subject. I really am enjoying my life for the moment, just have to make the most of everyday. I need to focus on acting on Quadrant II activities and be sincere and empathetic with people.

bis,

matthieu//